This sock when knitted as written with 4-ply worsted weight
and KP 3 ½ - 4, fits my foot, shoe size 7. It can easily be made larger or smaller
by adding or taking away rows (+ / - 2,4,6,8, etc.) or stitches (+ / - 3,6,9,12,
etc.). Why not knit this size for starters and then adjust from there. Sock
is knitted in one piece from the cuff of the sock (front of leg) to the cuff
of the sock (back of leg) and is seamed-as-you-go. When you take it off the
machine, it's 'altogether' - there's nothing left to seam!
The written instructions are below. For the same instructions
along with detailed pictures of the work in progress, click
here.
For striped sock chart and pics of how to carry up colors,
click here.
For an additional step when shaping the heel and toe which
results in slightly smaller holes, click
here.
The easiest way to start is with a small piece of waste knitting.
Any old sample swatch, wide enough for the needles in use, will do. There's
no need for the hem with weights, a couple of claw weights or something similar
will do fine. And you'll need bobby pins, for this size about 70.
Push 15 needles through the waste knitting. Hang two claw weights on waste
knitting close to the top. Knit one row with ravel cord manually or with the
carriage. Put a clip on both ends of the ravel cord so it doesn't pull loose.
CAST ON & KNIT CUFF: With main yarn, manually knit one row of large stitches
from left to right. Cut a strip of cardboard 3/8" wide, place it behind
needles and form stitches by pulling needles back against strip). Hang a clip
or clothes pin on beginning yarn tail to keep first stitch from getting too
large.
COR. Thread up carriage with main yarn. Hang a bobby pin over main yarn on
right side where it comes up from the waste knitting leading to the carriage.
Set RC = 000. Knit to the left without pulling up too much of the slack so
the first stitch doesn't get much smaller than the rest. Put a bobby pin over
the yarn where it comes out of the last stitch just knitted. Push it close to
the needle. Pull up slack in yarn but not too tightly - bobby pin might get
caught in hook of needle if you do. Knit back to the right. Each time before
you knit back in the opposite direction, hang a bobby pin over the yarn - it
will become knitted in and make the loops that are used for seaming easy to
find. After a while, the pins will turn towards the center of the knitted piece,
they won't get into your way. Knit to to RC = 009. COL.
CONVERT FOR RIB (K2, P1 on right side): Count down 9 purl bumps below second
needle on the left side of the bed. Put hook of latch tool through stitch under
ninth bump and release that stitch from the needle at the top. Ladder back up,
replace stitch on needle. Repeat with stitch columns 5, 8, 11, and 14.
UPPER FRONT & TOP OF FOOT SECTION OF SOCK: Continue to knit, hanging bobby
pins over yarn at beginning of each row until row counter = 065, COL. Hang one
last bobby pin over yarn at beginning of next row and also put outside needle
on right edge into holding position. Knit to right. There should be an equal
number of pins on both sides of the knitting (33 each side for this size).
SHAPE TOE:
NOTE: Claw weights have to be moved up just about every row to help the remaining
stitches knit and not lift off needles while short-rowing.
RC = 066, COR: Bring yarn down under and back up over needle in holding position
(= needle wrapped to avoid hole). Take up slack in yarn. Put last needle on
left edge into HP. Knit to left. Wrap yarn around needle in HP as on the right
side. Put 2nd needle from right edge into HP, knit to the right.
Continue to bring needle on edge opposite of carriage to holding position,
knit. Each time wrap yarn around needle just put into HP before knitting back
to other side until there are 4 wrapped needles on the right edge in holding
position and 3 wrapped needles on the left edge in holding position.
RC = 073 COL: Wrap yarn around needle just put into HP and push the needle
last wrapped on the opposite side of the bed back to FWP. Knit to the right.
Continue to push one needle on the side opposite the carriage back to FWP before
knitting the next row until only the last needle on the left edge remains in
HP. RC = 080, COR. Push last needle back to FWP. Pick up bobby pin that is hanging
directly below it. Holding bobby pin straight up above needle, hang loop on
bobby pin on needle in FWP. Remove bobby pin. There are now a stitch, a wrap,
and a loop on this needle. Knit to left. Hang claw weights behind work.
Before beginning to knit each row, pick up the next bobby pin that is hanging
below the last needle on the opposite edge and put the loop on that needle.
Remove bobby pin, knit. Continue knitting and hanging loops until RC = 107,
COL.
When you pick up the knitting with the remaining pins, you can see that
the toe, sole, and upper foot are already seamed. Count remaining bobby pins:
There should be 19 on the right side, 18 on the left side. Do not hang any more
loops until after heel is shaped. Put outside needle on the right edge into
HP. Knit to right.
SHAPE HEEL: RC = 108, COR Continue shaping heel, putting needle on opposite
side of carriage into HP as previously for toe and wrapping yarn around needle
till RC = 115, COL.
Wrap yarn around last needle in HP and push the needle last wrapped on the opposite
side of the carriage back to FWP. Knit to the right. Continue to push one needle
on the side opposite the carriage back to FWP before knitting the next row until
one needle on the left and one needle on the right edge remain in HP. RC = 121,
COL.
Push last needle on right edge to FWP. Pick up bobby pin directly below
needle and hang loop on same needle. Remove bobby pin. Knit to the right. Move
claw weights to back of work. Push last needle on left edge to FWP. Hang loop.
Knit to the left. Continue to knit, always hanging loop from bobby pin on edge
needle opposite of carriage until RC = 158, COR. Hang last loop from each side
on the outside needles.
Knit one manual row of large stitches by putting the strip of 3/8th"
wide cardboard behind the needles. Form stitches by pulling the needles back
against the strip. Put a clip on yarn tail to keep end stitch from getting larger.
RIBBING (K2, P1 on right side): Count down 9 purl bumps below second needle
on the left side of the bed. Put hook of latch tool through stitch under ninth
bump and release that stitch from the needle at the top. Ladder back up, replace
stitch on needle. Repeat with stitch columns 5, 8, 11, and 14.
BIND OFF: Beginning on the left side, put latch hook through first purl
stitch from back through to front. Remove stitch from needle by either lifting
it up and off or by pushing the needle all the way forward, then pulling it
all the way towards the back of the bed. Let stitch slide behind latch of tool.
Put latch hook tool through next stitch (knit stitch) from front through to
back. Remove stitch from needle as above and pull it through stitch already
on tool. Continue with remaining stitches on bed, always putting hook through
purl stitches from back to front and through knit stitches from front to back
and pulling the next stitch through the stitch already on tool.
The piece is now off the machine, one loop is on the hook and 15 stitches
remain on ravel cord. Remove claw weights, clips. Fold waste yarn knitting to
the back, holding the sock so you are looking down inside it. The rib stitches
on WY look a little different than the ones just bound off because they are
upside down and do not have a loop paired with a stitch as usual. Bind them
off just the same by keeping to the same sequence as before. The first stitch
is a purl stitch so put the latch hook tool through it from the back through
to the front. The second stitch is a knit stitch, put hook through from front
to back. The next two stitches are purl stitches, the next a knit stitch, the
next two purl stitches, etc. to the last stitch which is a purl stitch.
Enlarge last loop to keep it from unraveling. Pull out ravel cord. Waste
yarn knitting will fall off. Remove claw weights and clips. Cut main yarn, leaving
a length for seaming.
Turn sock around so you are looking at the last loop from the right side.
The yarn tail from the beginning of the knitting is used to finish the bind-off.
Pulling on it will make the last loop smaller. Adjust the last loop so it is
the same size as the rest and pullthe yarn tail all the way through
it. Put latch hook tool through both bars of the next bound-off stitch to the
left and pull the yarn tail through it to the inside. Put latch hook tool from
back to front through the back bar of the same stitch that the yarn tail came
out of previously. Yarn over hook and pull tail through to inside. Weave in
both yarn ends. The sock is finished and 'Altogether'!
To make the sock with contrasting cuffs, toe, and heel: Start with the contrasting
yarn and knit to RC = 009 COL. Reform stitches for ribbing. Knit one additional
row. RC = 010 COR. Cut contrast yarn and start main yarn. Knit to RC = 066 COR.
Cut main yarn and start contrast yarn. Knit to RC = 079 COL. Cut contrast yarn
and continue with main yarn. Knit to RC = 108 COR. Cut main yarn and continue
with contrast yarn. Knit to RC = 121 COL. Cut contrast yarn and continue with
main yarn. Knit to RC = 148 COR. Cut main yarn and continue with contrast yarn
to end. Count down 9 purl bumps below second needle on the left side of the
bed. Put hook of latch tool through stitch under ninth bump and release that
stitch from the needle at the top. Ladder back up, replace stitch on needle.
Repeat with stitch columns 5, 8, 11, and 14.
If you find any errors in the pattern, please let
me know!
