Double Knitting on the Bond

The way double knitting in two colors works is really simple, it does take some time though, so you might not want to make anything very large!  If you have knitted with two colors on the Bond and have relatched stitches for ribbing, you should have no problems. This pattern has 58 stitches and 33 rows and it doesn't matter whether it's upside down or not.  It is very practical to have a large chart, about the size of the actual needles on the bed.

Side Edge of Chart

-Last Row------------------------------------------------------------First Row-

I know it looks terrible, but trust me, it does come out right!

Start with a closed cast-on and knit the first row in your main color.  Put the pattern chart behind the needle butts on your bed and push all the needles that will be knitted in the contrasting color to holding position.  You can follow the squares on the pattern with your finger and push the needles forward with the other hand, or whatever works best for you. 

Knit the first row.  Push all the needles that were in holding position back to forward working position with the latches open.  If you have a second carriage with the intarsia keyplate, lay your yarn in the hooks and knit the contrast stitches (take off the wire guide).  If you have only one carriage you would have to pull the needles that were just knitted to holding position, then put the carriage back on the other side of the bed, thread it with the contrast yarn and knit across. 

Now you will need to convert every second stitch across the bed to a knit stitch.  Put your latch hook tool under the purl bump and float of stitch two, then release that stitch from the needle.  Pull down on the stitch and latch it back up (make sure you remember what color it was :) and that you are latching it up in front of the float!), then hang it back on the needle so the float is now behind it.  The next stitch also has a float in front of it but that's ok, it won't show later.  Continue to convert every other stitch so you actually seem to be ending up with a 1x1 rib pattern. 

When you begin a new row, always pick up the main color from under the contrast color so your sides will be connected, the yarns need to cross there.  Pull up the slack on the edges of your knitting, otherwise those last couple of stitches tend to get very large.  When you first start knitting, it is pretty messy looking but once you get some rows done, you can pull down on your stitches and you will see that they will close up and even more so once you remove the weighted hem. 

You are really knitting two pieces at the same time on every other needle, the only reason that they are connected is that the colors are going back and forth from the front piece to the back piece.  The way I knitted my sample was to cut each pattern row off the chart after I was finished with it so I could always put the next row of the chart right behind the needle butts.  It seems a bit wasteful but it was faster! 

Besides this chart, you can use any two color fair-isle chart that you have, let's say you had one that was 11 stitches across and had 13 rows like the picture below.  You could chart it first in the original color combination, then chart it a second time with the colors reversed.  You could cut and paste the entire first stitch column of your original chart into a new chart.  Cut and paste the first stitch column of your reversed chart right next to it. Continue with the next stitch column of each of the two charts, etc. You will end up with twice as many stitches but the same number of rows.

Let me know if you have trouble understanding these directions, I'll try and do better! :) 

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This page last updated 5-September-1999