Round Rose Blanket


This blanket is knitted using the holding position and consists of 11 pie-shaped wedges, each with a rose motif made up of purl stitches. It is knitted with two strands of contrasting colors throughout. Any yarn that can be knitted double can be used. If you haven't been there yet, check out this page for how to knit with the two strands.

Cast on 100 stitches with waste yarn and knit several rows. If desired, knit one row with ravel cord before beginning with the main yarn. That makes it easier to remove the waste yarn from the knitted piece later.

Base Row: COL Knit one row with main yarn across all 100 needles, or however many you are using. After knitting the next row, you may want to remove your weighted hem and use claw weights instead as it tends to get lopsided very quickly with so many needles in holding position. You don't really need any weights under those, only below the ones in working position.

Row 1: COR Put all except the two outermost needles on the carriage side to holding position. Separate the two strands of yarn and pull the strand that you want showing on the knitted (right) side slightly to the left of the first needle, then pull the first needle to holding position, in between the two strands. Leave the other strand of yarn (the one you want to show on the purl side) on the right side of the needle. As you begin to knit, check the first stitch and make sure it has knitted in the arrangement that you want, otherwise the entire row will knit with the wrong color facing you. Pull up slack in yarn (not too tightly, because we're slipping the first stitch every other row!) and knit across the next stitch.

Row 2: COL Push needle 3 just far enough back towards the bed so you can slide one strand of the yarns under and to the right of it. It should be the strand that you want to show on the right (knitted) side. The strand that you want on the purl (wrong) side should be on the left side of the needle in holding position. Move the first needle on the other side of the bed back to forward working position. Pull up slack in yarn and knit from left to right.

Row 3: COR Separate yarns as before, pushing the first needle out to holding position, between the two yarn strands and also pushing needles 3 and 4 from holding into forward working position. Pull up slack in yarn and knit from right to left.

Row 4: COL Separate strands of yarn as before, wrapping just one of them around needle number 5 as above and also push needle number 1 back to forward working position. Knit across.

Repeat this wrapping throughout and also bring two additional needles on the left side from holding to forward working position every second row until there are four needles left in holding position.

On the next row, bring three of the four needles to forward working position. Knit across. Separate yarn strands as before and pull the 2nd to the last needle to holding position again, in between the two strands before knitting back. By not knitting the very last stitch at all and only knitting the second to the last stitch every other row, you avoid having a large hole in the center of the blanket.

Repeat Row 1-98 10 more times.

At the end of row 38, COR, begin to convert purl stitches to knit stitches according to the chart.

The method I used was to make a little booklet with strips cut from a couple of sheets of 1/4" graphpaper. I put it on top of the bed, marking the needle channel spaces, then put the pattern repeat numbers from 9-40 just once at the top of the sheet. At each end I put an arrow and the row number that would be knitted next after the stitches were converted.

Following the pattern chart, I put the number of rows (purl bumps) that a stitch had to be laddered down in the column under that stitch number, then cut all the strips apart on the lines and threaded them together. I made a narrow tray from a clear piece of plastic with sides the height of the booklet and slightly shorter than the strips and open on both ends and laid the little booklet in it so that the side I would have to flip over was outside of the tray. On the bed, with freezer tape, I also marked the first and last number of the pattern repeat, 9 and 40. While knitting, I would set the tray on top of the needle channels lining up the numbers 9 and 40 on the strip with the numbers 9 and 40 on the bed and I could see at a glance which stitch had to be converted and how many rows down. After converting the stitches, I moved the tray behind the machine and after knitting the next row, put it back on the bed and flipped the strip over to convert the stitches on this row. All that may sound a bit goofy (ok, ok, I admit....., it does!), but I lost a lot of time first trying to find the stitch column on the chart, then going back to the bed and finding the right stitch to convert.

This may be too much trouble if you are only knitting one repeat of a motif, but it came in handy for doing 11 of them because I never had to look from bed to chart and back again to find my place. Maybe it will work for you too, but of course, you can work straight from the chart instead.

After all 11 sections have been knitted, run a piece of spare yarn through the stitches and remove fabric from the machine. Join both ends together with the Kitchener Stitch. I used only the white yarn first and then duplicate-stitched the pink yarn over it, to me that seemed easier than trying to always have the pink strand on top, covering the white strand. Try it and see what works for you. Pull the hole in the center together and add whichever edging you want to the outside. I used the worm trim, using 6 needles and knitting them for 16 rows instead of the usual 3 needles and 8 rows, it made the trim look a bit larger.

If you find an error somewhere, please let me know and also if you come up with time-saving or any other ideas, I'm always glad to find a better way of doing something.

Click for either the numbered rose chart or the chart for the blanket.


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This page last updated 19 - April - 2000